The cheese course at le Comptoir du Relais. Or: Thanksgiving in Paris.

The cheese course is a part of the set menu - the waiter brings a tray and leaves you to it.

Also on the set menu that night: scallops roasted in the shell with black trumpet mushrooms; a single Breton lobster raviolo in a frothy bisque with vinegar pearls rolling around the bowl; milk-fed veal seared on the plancha; (one of us ordered the lièvre façon royale, rabbit in its own blood - intense, elegant, rich); and mousse with tropical fruits and lait ribot ice cream. Caramels come with the check.